Yahooooo! I finally found time to write up my pattern for my poncho! Success!

I made this poncho months ago, but have really struggled to find time to write it up.

I really love the colours – it was the colours that really inspired me – is saw them sat together in a Tiger store, and just had to make something with them.

Then began the long process of actually making it and getting enough yarn. I used up my first 6 balls and realised I would need a hell of a lot more. But as anyone who has ever bought yarn in a tiger store will know, they only have a small amount at a time. And its not always the same. So I went to my local store. They didnt have any anymore. I had to go up to oxford street where there are 2 stores. The first store didnt have enough. So I emptied them out and made my way to the second store. I emptied them out too! Finally I had enough. It was a palava!

Anyways, I hope all my effort was worth it! Here is the pattern!

Begin to create a standard square of c2c crochet for 27 rows.

To do this follow these instructions:

1.Chain 6. Dc into the 4th 5th and 6th chain from the hook. Chain 6. Turn.

2. Dc into the 4th 5th and 6th chain from the hook. Ss into the space between the chain and first Dc of the previous row. Chain 3. Then Dc 3 times into the same space. Chain 6. Turn.

3. Dc into the 4th 5th and 6th chain from the hook. Ss into the space between the chain and first Dc of the previous row. Chain 3. Then Dc 3 times into the same space. Ss into the next. space between the chain and first Dc of the previous row. Chain 3. Then Dc 3 times into the same space. Chain 6. Turn.

Row 4-27. From here on, just continue to increase (Chain 6 then Dc into the 4th 5th and 6th chain – like you have been doing at the beginning of every row) until you have reached 27 rows. You can change colours as often as you like.

Once you have reached 27 rows, you should have 27 blocks along the top row along which you have been stitching.

Now we will create the shoulder/neck hole area. This has to be worked in two parts so I will make the a (Left) and b (Right). Bear in mind that I am writing this as a left hander, so if you are a right hander, it will be the other way round, so a (Right) and b (Left). Really, the easiest way to explain this is to say that a is the side on which row 27 ended.

Row 28a. Continue as the previous round with an increase and continue the standard row until you have 11 blocks.

Row 29a. This is where you will perform your first decrease.

*To decrease, instead of continuing, you slip stitch into the next chain 3 as normal but instead of chaining 3 to start the next block, you turn your work and Ss along the top of your precious block until you reach the chain 3, then continue the row as you normall would by chaining 3 and Dc 3 times into the chain 3 space.*

As stated continue onto the next block, and keep going to the end. This row should also have 11 blocks.

Row 30a. Increase at the beginning them continue to the end. Stop after 11 blocks.

Row 31a. Increase at the beginning then continue to the end for 11 blocks.

Row 32a. Decrease at the beginning then continue to the end for 11 blocks. Fasten off.

From the other side, (the side on which you started row 27) count in 11 blocks. Fasten your yarn into the chain 3 space to begin the first block of row 28b.

28b. Chain 3, then Dc 3 times into the chain 3 space of the previous round. Continue the round as normal for 11 blocks.

29b. Increase at the beginning them continue to the end. Stop after 11 blocks.

30b. Decrease at the beginning then continue to the end for 11 blocks.

Row 31b. Increase at the beginning then continue to the end for 11 blocks.

Row 32b. Decrease at the beginning then continue to the end for 11 blocks. Fasten off.

When you lay your work out flat, you should now see that the square is starting to decrease. The next row is the most fiddly bit. You should start on side b.

Row 33. Fasten the yarn into the last block of the last round. Chain 3 then Dc 3 times into the same chain 3 space. Continue to create blocks until you have reached the end of row 32b. You should have 11 blocks. You will now need to create a block as you would at the beginning of an increase row, by chaining 6 then Dc into the 4th 5th and 6th chain. The difference here is thay intead of turning and slip stitching into a chain 3 space, you should instead chain 6 and repeat the process again. In total you will need to do this 6 times. Only then, will you slip stith into the next chain 3 space. And continue the row as normal until the end. Before you do this however, make sure your 6 previous blocks are lined up. You will have to twist them a little so that all of the chain 3 spaces sit correctly. This is something that I cant really explain, you will just have to have a play about. You will also notice that the 6th square doesnt look quite right when you ss into the chain three space – you just need to correct this by attatching the bottom of the final Dc in block 6 to the top of the final Dc in the block you have just ss into. Job done.

We are now in the home stretch!

Row 34. From this point on we just decrease as we would a standard square, by decreasing at the end of each row, by stopping 1 short of the end and ss. Across the top of the previous block into the chain 3 then beginning the next row from there. The rows will now start to shrink! Hurrah!

Row 35-60. Decrease with each row until you reach just one single block in row 60. You will ne surptised how quickly this goes!

Fasten off, weave in ends, and marvel in your handy work!